How to Upholster a Leather Chair Step-by-Step - Review & Guide

Got an old leather chair that’s more crackle than comfort? Whether you’re dealing with torn upholstery, worn-out foam, or just a serious design upgrade, reupholstering your leather chair is totally doable.

This guide breaks down the whole process step by step. So, let’s review what it really takes to bring your leather chair back to life.

Is Upholstering a Leather Chair Worth It?

Before we get into the nuts and bolts (and tacks and staples), let’s ask the big question — is this even worth doing? Reupholstering a leather chair isn’t just about aesthetics. It’s about cost-effectiveness, sentimental value, and whether your chair is built well enough to deserve a second life.

Here’s what to consider:

Pros: You’ll save money over buying a brand-new high-end leather chair, especially if the frame is solid hardwood. Plus, you get to pick exactly the look you want.
Cons: It’s time-consuming, especially for beginners, and can be frustrating without the right tools or patience.
Estimated cost: DIY upholstery typically costs $100–$300 depending on materials, while hiring a pro can run $500–$1,200 or more.

If your chair has sentimental value or a solid frame, it’s definitely worth doing. If it’s a wobbly discount-store piece… maybe not.

What You’ll Need: Tools & Materials Reviewed

Let’s not sugarcoat it — you’ll need some specific tools and good-quality materials to make this project look polished. But don’t worry, most of these are affordable and easy to source online or at hardware stores. Here’s what you’ll need and why each item matters.

Essential Tools

These are the tools that do the heavy lifting — literally and figuratively. A good staple gun and a few specialty items can save you hours of frustration.

Staple Gun: An electric staple gun is faster and easier on your hands than a manual one. Look for one that handles upholstery-length staples (¼”–⅜”).
Upholstery Needle Set: Curved needles make it easier to stitch tight corners or sew through layers.
Leather Scissors or Rotary Cutter: A clean cut is key when working with leather. Don’t use your kitchen scissors — you’ll regret it.
Flathead Screwdriver or Tack Remover: For pulling out old staples and tacks.
Rubber Mallet: Handy for tapping in tacks or smoothing down trim without damaging your materials.
Staple Remover: Not mandatory, but makes removing old fabric way easier.

Best Materials for the Job

Your chair is only as comfortable and stylish as the materials you use. From leather selection to foam thickness, each piece plays a role.

Leather: Choose between genuine, faux, or bonded leather. Genuine leather lasts longer and ages better, but faux is easier to work with and budget-friendly. Avoid bonded leather unless you love cracks and peeling in a year.
Foam & Batting: For seat comfort and support, use high-density foam (2–4 inches thick) plus polyester batting to smooth the look.
Staples or Upholstery Tacks: Galvanized ⅜” staples are perfect for most DIY projects. Tacks can add flair to visible edges.
Lining & Dust Cover Fabric: Used on the bottom of the chair for a clean finish and underside protection.

How to Upholster a Leather Chair in 6 Simple Steps

Here’s the moment of truth — the actual hands-on process. Below is a step-by-step review-style breakdown that guides you from strip-down to finishing touch. Go slow, and trust the process — each step builds on the last.

1. Strip Down the Old Upholstery

First things first — you need to remove the existing leather covering. This can be tedious, but it’s a crucial step.

Use a flathead screwdriver or staple remover to pull out staples or tacks.
Remove the fabric carefully and label each piece (seat, back, arms) so you can use them as templates.
Take photos as you go — they’ll be a huge help when it’s time to reassemble.
If there’s padding underneath, check if it’s reusable. If it’s sagging or stained, toss it.

2. Inspect and Repair the Chair Frame

Once the leather’s off, you’ll see the bones of the chair — now’s your chance to reinforce anything creaky or cracked.

Look for loose joints, split wood, or broken slats.
Use clamps and wood glue to secure any weak spots (Gorilla Wood Glue or Titebond III are great options).
Tighten any screws or bolts and replace missing hardware.

You want a solid foundation before you start wrapping it back up.

3. Replace the Padding (If Needed)

Comfort starts from the inside. If the foam’s lumpy or deflated, you’ll need to replace it.

Use your old foam as a rough guide and cut new pieces with a sharp bread knife or electric carving knife.
Add a layer of polyester batting for smoothness.
Spray adhesive helps hold everything in place as you work.

Don’t skimp here — cheap padding makes even expensive leather feel uncomfortable.

4. Cut and Prep the New Leather

Now it’s time to work with the star of the show — your new leather. Prepping it properly makes all the difference.

Lay out the old leather pieces on your new hide and trace them with chalk.
Use sharp leather scissors or a rotary cutter to cut along your markings.
Gently condition the leather with a small amount of leather conditioner. This softens it and makes it easier to stretch and staple.

Make sure you cut pieces with enough overlap — better to trim later than come up short.

5. Attach the Leather to the Frame

Here’s where it all starts to come together. Stapling leather is part finesse, part muscle.

Start at the center of each side and work your way out. Pull the leather taut as you go.
Smooth wrinkles and tuck folds at the corners for a professional look.
Use a staple every 1–2 inches for a snug fit.
For rounded areas like arms or backs, make small pleats or cuts to allow for curves.

Don’t rush this — take breaks to step back and check for even tension and alignment.

6. Reassemble and Finish

With all the leather in place, you’re almost there. Time to add the finishing touches.

Attach any decorative trim, nailhead accents, or wood legs that were removed.
Cover the bottom with dust cloth using your staple gun.
Give your leather one last wipe with a conditioner or soft cloth to make it shine.

Stand back, admire your work, and maybe brag a little.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced DIYers mess up from time to time. Here are the big no-nos to dodge during your project:

Over-stretching the leather, which can cause puckering or tears.
Skipping frame repairs, which leads to squeaky or unsafe chairs.
Using dull scissors or cheap staples, which cause ragged edges and loose fits.
Guessing instead of measuring, especially when cutting foam or leather panels.

Pro Tips for a Flawless Finish

Want your chair to look showroom-ready? Here are a few expert moves to level up your finish.

Warm your leather with a hairdryer to soften it before stapling — just don’t overheat it.
Use matching thread for any visible stitching.
Steam out wrinkles with a low-steam iron (protect the leather with a cloth barrier).
Test your staple depth on scrap wood before firing away at your chair.

Small tweaks go a long way in creating a polished final result.

FAQs About Upholstering Leather Chairs

Can you reuse the old leather?
Only if it’s in excellent condition with no cracks, peeling, or sun damage. Most older leather tends to dry out, fade, or stiffen over time, making it unsuitable for reupholstery. It’s safer and more rewarding to start with fresh leather for a clean, polished finish.

How long does it take to upholster a chair?
It depends on the chair’s complexity and your experience level. A simple dining chair may take 1–2 hours, while a full-size armchair could require an entire weekend or more. Plan extra time for repairs, foam replacement, and mistakes if it’s your first time.

Can I upholster without a sewing machine?
Yes — many leather chair projects are entirely no-sew thanks to strategic folding, stapling, and tacking. If you do need to sew, hand-stitching with curved upholstery needles is totally doable. A sewing machine helps with speed but isn’t essential for success.

Is faux leather easier to work with?
Definitely — faux leather is more flexible, lightweight, and forgiving than genuine leather. It’s a great choice for beginners because it stretches easily and doesn’t require conditioning. Just be sure to get upholstery-grade vinyl so it holds up to use.

What’s the best type of leather for DIY upholstery?
Top-grain or corrected-grain leather is ideal for upholstery projects because it balances durability with ease of handling. Full-grain leather is beautiful but stiffer and harder to work with, especially for curved surfaces. Faux leather or marine vinyl is also a great budget-friendly, beginner-safe option.

Do I need to use batting over the foam?
Yes — batting gives the chair a smoother, more cushioned look and helps prevent sharp leather corners or visible foam lines. It also softens the feel of the seat and improves long-term comfort. Even just a thin polyester batting layer can make a big visual difference.

Should You Reupholster Your Leather Chair?

YES. Upholstering a leather chair isn’t just a DIY project — it’s a craft that brings worn-out furniture back to life with style, strength, and your own creative stamp.

Yes, there will be staples flying, corners fighting back, and maybe a few muttered words. But when you sit back and admire your finished chair — sturdy, sleek, and made by you — you’ll understand why so many people get hooked on upholstery.

So grab the tools, clear a weekend, and dive in. You’re not just upholstering a chair — you’re crafting a centerpiece that tells a story.

How to Upholster a Leather Chair Step-by-Step – Review & Guide